When you finally manage to tackle all your skin concerns and abide by a consistent skincare routine, the only struggle remaining is of that inevitable residual pigmentation and scarring. Sure, you may have become a skincare guru now, but what should you do with all that collateral damage your skin suffered through this process? The answer relies on one category of skincare: Acids.
Hyaluronic, salicylic, mandelic, or glycolic, skincare acids are pretty amazing. They can do everything, from refreshing, exfoliating, and regenerating the skin as well as controlling oil production and fighting off wrinkles. But for this particular issue, there’s one under-the-radar acid that got our attention: Tranexamic acid.
Tranexamic acid is it’s about to be the biggest up-and-coming acid in skincare. The one-stop-shop for treating pigmentation and dark spots brightens the skin with unprecedented efficacy. But what actually is Tranexamic acid?
A synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, Tranexamic acid is a powerful ingredient recognized for its ability to brighten skin complexion and improve the appearance of discoloration. Tranexamic acid is used for Melasma (dark spots) treatment, including pregnancy melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Tranexamic acid works by providing a powerful and specific anti-inflammatory action, inhibiting the tyrosinase synthesis in melanocytes. At the same time, it blocks the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to keratinocytes in the epidermis.
Tranexamic acid can treat existing pigmentation effectively, and products containing the ingredient are recommended for preventing post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH) too, which can be a common side effect of laser treatments, chemical peels, dermabrasion etc. Tranexamic acid also calms the skin and helps restore the skin barrier. It is safe to use for all skin types and colors, and since it’s is gentle on its own, you can combine it with other skincare ingredients to maximize the benefits. When combining it with chemical peels, retinol, or other active ingredients, it’s truly a game-changer in treating Melasma, scarring, and post-inflammatory pigmentation (PIH). In fact, Tranexamic acid decreases the skin’s sensitivity to UV – this is why the ingredient is so popular in Asia and India.
A recent clinical study evaluated a combination of niacinamide and Tranexamic acid (TXA) as a topical moisturizer in the treatment of 42 Korean women with irregular facial hyperpigmentation. This formulation was significantly more effective in reducing hyperpigmentation than in the control group.
WHAT TYPE OF INGREDIENT IS: Acid
BENEFITS: Fades discoloration, brightens skin, reduces the appearance of acne scars
WHO SHOULD USE IT: Generally, Tranexamic acid is safe for all skin types. Those with sensitive/reactive skin or eczema should do a patch test on the inside of the wrist before use, just to be safe.
HOW OFTEN YOU CAN USE IT: Ideally, Tranexamic acid would be applied twice a day, but it’s best to start with one application per day to see how it reacts with your skin.
PLAYS WELL WITH Vitamin C, SPF, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid, Retinol.
DON’T USE WITH: Multiple different acids, stick to only using it with one or two others to avoid dryness.
PRODUCTS WE LOVE
Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense
Discoloration Defense is a buildable, daily-use dark spot corrector clinically proven to reduce the appearance of key types of skin discoloration. Formulated with 3% Tranexamic acid, 1% Kojic acid, and 5% niacinamide, this formula improves the appearance of discoloration, brightens skin, and evens tone. The brand states that it takes as little as two weeks to achieve visible results, but some users reported that it takes as long as six weeks to see results on existent spots, so be patient. It does an outstanding job at minimizing the reoccurrence of pigmentation. I found it to act very fast at preventing hyperpigmentation, rather than fading existing patches. But it does a beautiful job at evening the skin tone, and is an ideal complement to professional skin discoloration treatments.
How to use it: Twice daily, apply 3-5 drops to face and neck. If using in the morning, apply after a vitamin C serum and follow with a broad spectrum SPF 50+ mineral sunscreen. Limit sun exposure while using this product.
Maximize its results
1. Use it daily, during daytime and pair it with Vitamin C and mineral SPF 50 as a preventive measure.
2. Between chemical peels- this formula targets stubborn types of discoloration but is gentle on the skin, making it ideal for an at-home regimen between treatments.
Skinmedica Lytera 2.0 Pigment Correcting Serum
According to data published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology: Lytera 2.0 reduced melanin levels by 45 percent after 14 days of use. That result is a very positive one, even comparable to prescription-strength hydroquinone. Lytera 2.0 has been formulated across multiple skin tones in four different ethnicities and shown to fade discoloration regardless of the skin tone. In fact, it’s even safe for moms-to-be. It relies on a formula containing lightening ingredients such as Tranexamic acid, Niacinamide, Phenethyl resorcinol, and Tetrapeptide-30. It contains Phytic acid to even skin texture and a marine extract blend to correct and prevent the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It does a great job of balancing skin tone, and it’s complementary to a healthy skin barrier.
How to use it: Twice daily, apply 3-5 drops to face and neck. If using in the morning, apply after a vitamin C serum and follow with a broad spectrum SPF 50+ mineral sunscreen. Limit sun exposure while using this product.
Note: From my understanding, people that bought this serum from Amazon didn’t experience the benefits of it, or worse, they developed skin irritations. One user even said: “I have used this product purchased from a reputable medspa. Worked as promised. Then I tried to save $20 and ordered this from Amazon. My face had an immediate allergic reaction to the Amazon Lytera. I believe this is a fake. Whatever formulation the knock off contains caused serious redness and scaling to my skin. Now instead of saving $20, I’m out $150.” Please buy this serum from reputable sellers to avoid these reactions.
Su-man Velvet skin brightening serum
If you’re new to this serum, prepare to meet your newest skincare obsession. In addition to tranexamic acid, it also contains dragon’s blood— a red resin from the Amazon forest that has powerful protective, regenerative, and anti-aging properties. It has been used by indigenous peoples as a healing skin treatment for centuries. Forming a ‘second skin’ barrier, it helps to repair and reconstruct collagen, improves the integrity of the skin’s natural barrier whilst restoring firmness and elasticity to the skin. Additionally, it features a potent formula of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, omegas, and ceramides. The Cassia alata (the candle tree) extract is rich in a specific polyphenol that has been found to protect against the environmental effects of UV radiation on the skin. It works wonders at preventing hyperpigmentation, evening the skin tone, and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
How to use it: The serum is separated into two phases: a clear phase on top and a pink one underneath. Before applying, you have to shake well in order to mix the serum and activate it. Twice daily, apply 3-5 drops to face and neck. If using in the morning, apply after a vitamin C serum and follow with a broad spectrum SPF 50+ mineral sunscreen. Limit sun exposure while using this product.
Good Molecules Discoloration correcting serum
This serum is a great budget-friendly option. If you want to try out Tranexamic acid without overspending, look no further than this serum by Good Molecules. It contains Tranexamic acid, Hyaluronic acid for moisture, and Niacinamide for brightening the skin. This formula helps fade discoloration, moisturize dehydrated skin, and brighten your complexion. It does exactly what is supposed to, promotes a clear skin tone, and evens the texture of your skin.
How to use it: Twice daily, apply 3-5 drops to face and neck. If using in the morning, apply after a vitamin C serum and follow with a broad spectrum SPF 50+ mineral sunscreen. Limit sun exposure while using this product.